Why does my heater “cycle” on and off?

  • Inadequate water flow caused by a dirty filter or closed valves.
  • External bypass needs adjusting.
  • Reversed water connections.
  • Water pressure switch is out of adjustment.
  • It is also possible that the thermostat is out of calibration.

Why doesn’t my heater reach my desired temperature?

  • The thermostat may be set too low.
  • Inadequate gas supply.
  • Malfunctioning thermostat.
  • You are losing heat faster then you are adding it. (If the heat loss in the pool is greater than the heat input, the heater might be too small or you may need a thermal barrier). Use a thermal barrier to help prevent heat loss

Why would my heater be leaking?

  • The heat exchanger may be leaking because,
    (1) Chemical imbalance.
    (2) Sanitizer damage.
    (3) Winter freeze damage.
    (4) Failed joints.
  • Regardless of the reason, a service company must be contacted to inspect the failed exchanger. Contact Preferred Pools and Spas for examination.

Why is my pump running hot and powering off?

  • This maybe caused by insufficient power due to an undersized wire or a poor connection.  Check your owner’s manual for proper wiring.
  • Your local power company might be experiencing a power drop especially during a heat wave.  Restart your pump when the weather cools to confirm that the problem is really in the motor.
  • Your pump has a thermal overload, which will shut the motor off when it gets too hot—it will restart once it has cooled down.  Check the air intake vents of your motor to ensure they are free of debris.  If debris is blocking these vents, it will cause the motor to run hot and possibly shut down.
  • Make sure your pump is located in an area with adequate drainage.  Flooding from rain and other sources could cause a pump to run hot and cut off.

Why is my pump noisy?

  • The motor has an internal cooling fan that can be heard. When installing your pump, it is advised to carefully consider the location; under a bedroom window may not be an ideal location.
  • Vibration from the pump’s feet and the base (where the pump rests) can cause the pump to be noisy.  A piece of old carpet or rubber between the pump’s base and equipment pad might reduce the noise.
  • Ensure the pump is level and the suction lines are not higher then the pump.
  • The bearing(s) might be noisy due to age or high concentrations of chemicals and heat. A leaky pump seal could damage the front motor bearing.  It is very important to quickly repair any leaks around the pump to prevent extensive damage.  It is recommended that you replace the bearings or the entire motor.  Contact us for a repair.
  • Many times a noisy pump can come from cavitation. Cavitation has two possible causes, which are both hydraulically (water flow) related.  The first is that the suction piping is undersized.  If this pipe is undersized, the amount of water the pump requires to operate properly is reduced.  Increasing the pipe size (increase water flow) or dropping the size of the impeller (decrease water flow) can quiet the pump. The second is that there is little or no backpressure on the pressure side of system (water feature pumps are a good example).  Adding a valve or something to increase backpressure is advised.
  • For all of the above, it may be necessary to contact us for assistance.

Pool water chemistry along with proper filtration is the key to clean healthy water. It doesn’t matter if you have 100 or 1,000,000 gallons of water, the same balance levels and chemical types are required—only the quantity will vary. Everything that enters the body of water affects water balance: swimmers, rain, pollution, animals and chemicals.

Every pool, each season, creates its own demand for different chemicals. The pool in your neighbor’s yard, with the same system and environment may react totally different then your own. Every pool also develops a pattern each season. After observing how your pool reacts to different bather levels, rain, and the environment you will get a handle on your pools chemistry pattern and what’s required to keep the water balanced.

If the water is not properly maintained and the pH, Total Alkalinity and Calcium Hardness are allowed to fall below the recommended levels, the water will turn corrosive and can etch plaster, wrinkle vinyl liners, irritate the eyes & skin, AND corrode any metal components in the filtration system. The effects of this are most noticeable when a heater begins to leak. The corrosive water will eat at the copper in the heater’s heat exchanger. The copper will dissolve into the water and blond hair will start turning green and you may begin to see stains on the pool walls.

If the levels are kept above the proper ranges, the water becomes scale forming. Scale will build up on the pool walls, the water will remain cloudy, eyes and skin irritation will develop and chlorine will not work as effectively.

If you are in doubt as to how to maintain your pool or spa, contact us today.

Please note: The following is just a guideline. To ensure your pool is safe for the winter, please consider contacting us to schedule an appointment. We are trained professionals and guarantee our work will extend the life of your pool.

Cold Climates

  1. Adjust pH to 7.2-7.8 to prevent stains, scaling and algae growth. Shock the pool using label directions.
  2. Run the filter for 24-48 hours.
  3. Remove floating debris and vacuum thoroughly.
  4. Add an algaecide to prevent algae from forming before water freezes.
  5. Follow your pool manufacturer's directions for lowering your water level. Only a few pools need to be completely drained during the winter. Many pools fare cold temperatures better when partially filled with water as a buffer. A drained pool can also crack or pop out of the ground because of pressure from ground water.
  6. Shut off filter pump and drain pump, filter heater and all other equipment. Store to prevent freezing. Follow manufacturer's directions for lubrication and proper covering(s).
  7. Turn off all power to the support equipment and remove fuses or turn the circuit breakers to off.
  8. If you have a slide or diving board, take it off and store it.
  9. Cover pool securely and fill water bags halfway (the edge of the cover should be sealed so that wind does not get under it). A quality pool cover resists water, weather and pool chemicals and keeps out leaves and airborne dust.

Thoroughly cleaning your pool on a weekly basis during the swimming season will ensure clean and safe swimming water.

Skim Off Leaves and Debris

Use a long-handled leaf skimmer to gather up leaves, insects, and any other debris floating on the surface of the pool. Try to remove debris before it sinks to the bottom of your pool where it becomes difficult to remove and may create stains.

Brush

Use a brush to remove dirt that has collected on the sides and bottom of your pool. Brush sediment toward the main drain so it can be easily vacuumed.

Vacuum

Submerge your vacuum head and hose, before hooking up the vacuum to the filter.

Clean Skimmer(s)

You should also clean out your skimmer(s) weekly or more often if necessary. Removing debris allows the skimmer to operate at maximum efficiency.

Check Water Circulation

Your pool's circulation system includes the skimmer, pump, pump strainer, drains, and filter. The system helps chemicals work effectively and ensures that water is properly filtered. Run your pump long enough each day to make sure the water is properly filtered and keep each item clean and in good condition.

Check Filter

The three most popular types of filters - sand, cartridge, and vertical grid DE - screen out debris and particles from your pool water. You should clean and maintain your filter according to the manufacturer's directions.

Shock

Test your pool water frequently (daily or weekly depending on use) and add chemicals if necessary, following manufacturers' directions. A regular shock treatment cleanses the water of algae, bacteria, dirt, and any other organic matter that may have entered the pool. Follow manufacturer's directions for shock treatments.